Guests who braved an early start and rainy weather to catch Daniel Roseberry’s debut ready-to-wear presentation for Schiaparelli were rewarded with an unexpected sight: 10 soaring totems, resembling female figures, made of items including hairdryers, goldfish bowls, pink flowers and gold chains.
The striking installation, set in a white-walled space at the Hôtel d’Evreux on Place Vendôme, served as the backdrop for a collection designed as a tribute to founder Elsa Schiaparelli — though it also contained a healthy dose of personal references. “It’s all fascinations and fixations from my childhood,” explained Roseberry, pointing to a tower of vintage My Little Ponys — he used to collect the toys — and a cage containing a parrot. “I grew up with a bird named George,” he offered. “I wanted it to be fun, I wanted it to be really personal, but still a complete tribute to her.”
For what is technically the house’s third stab at rtw (it unveiled its debut “prêt-à-couture” collection for spring 2016, and switched to “see-now-buy-now” drops last year), Roseberry adopted a more traditional approach with an essential, 10-piece wardrobe. “This is like a clean slate,” he said. “It’s really special and very exclusive, but it is normal ready-to-wear and then it’s a classic delivery model, too.”
The house’s signature black jacket had buttons in the shape of the designer’s fingerprints, and his handprint was embroidered over one hip. Jackets without lapels came in plain pink with short sleeves for day, and in extravagantly sequined versions for evening, including one fully embroidered with a technicolor sunset.
Roseberry drew inspiration from Schiaparelli’s original designs for a trouser suit in a travel-friendly crinkled brown viscose fabric that evoked tree bark. A quilting stitch on one vintage outfit inspired his new Secret Trapunto handbag, which comes in a hardware-free version where the padlock is rendered in trompe-l’oeil.
Clients can preorder the collection, with deliveries slated for November, when the house will offer a selection of products for sale online.