With several strong seasons under their belt and stores in Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii have become a fixture in the coveted Friday night slot during Tokyo Fashion Week. Their latest season was no exception, drawing a crowd that included local and international fashion insiders, among whom was Marcelo Burlon.

The designers began their show with a series of preppy white or checked short suits, with the jackets worn unbuttoned over bare chests for a look of disheveled cool. They also mixed different colors of checks — green, white and red or printed them onto sheer fabrics.

Khaki or olive shorts, pullovers and onesies were reminiscent of Fifties Boy Scout uniforms, combined with elements from classic military styles. There were also a few traditional checked suits, but in relaxed silhouettes and with elements like sleeves that dangled from the models’ shoulders or pants with high-waist backs, secured in the front with a black strap.

Never ones to play it safe, Osumi and Yoshii also mixed in bold neon tops and shirts and jackets embellished with shiny gold beads or clear rhinestones. Tailored shirts with built-in fanny packs displayed the pair’s adeptness at combining seemingly at-odds pieces into brand new, must-have garments, while a series of tie-dyed shirts, shorts and coats in mixed or matched pastels was one of the many ways they blurred gender lines by borrowing elements traditionally associated with women’s wear.

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