Bravo to the MM6 team, whose six-minute spring collection film is a delight: smart, engaging, wry and super on-brand. (The credits list all materials required to make it, including 245 safety pins, 10 litres of coffee and 20 painkillers over the three-day shoot.)
Oh, and the clothes are terrific, revisiting some of founder Martin Margiela’s best work while absorbing the energy, couture spirit and feminine touch of current creative director John Galliano’s recent output. (Galliano is dedicated to Artisanal couture and the main collections, while MM6 is developed by a collective.)
While basically a raw, behind-the-scenes look at the making of a lookbook, camera tricks and random quirks — three guys in white lab coats and surgical masks jamming out on wind instruments in the background, for example — accentuate the spirit of the clothes and the house. You had to smile when the camera panned from a slightly crumpled but pretty white dress with a sweetheart bodice to a furniture hangtag at the hip, revealing that it is made from a calico chair cover.
Beige bodysuits are back, along with slip-like tube skirts made of lining fabrics, romanticized with bits of lace. Trapeze hoodies, bifurcated trenchcoats, and denim pantlegs attached to high boots or repurposed for a criss-cross top are the kind of Margiela ideas that tickle the brain. While high-minded, they were as cool and wearable as the languid pantsuits, knife-pleat skirts, and boxy shirts with the sleeves hacked off at the elbow.
There’s even something to go viral on Instagram Reels or TikTok: Shirts and T-shirts with big silk scarves attached to the back. Offering cape-like drama when hanging free, the big squares reveal backdrop scenes — a street scape with cloudy sky, or a library — when the corners are held aloft: A built-in selfie station.