In his process of creating a shared fashion vocabulary for women and men, Alessandro Dell’Acqua kept things easy but appealing.
He opened the collection with a clean slate via a series of charming white looks treated with an injection of couture-like details. An essential, strapless dress, its shape exuding Nineties minimalism, was crafted from three layers of poplin creating volumes on the back and hiding a sartorial construction inside, while canvas coats were enriched with chiffon linings. Standout versions of the outerwear pieces had decorations of safety pins arrayed in floral motifs for women, and of pearl earrings pinned as brooches for men. Recycled snap buttons and chains were also profusely scattered across draped crepe de chine dresses, crisp shirts, pencil skirts and knitwear throughout the collections for a luminous effect.
Playing with contrasting textures, Dell’Acqua was generous with chiffon inserts and frocks, all embellished with long feathers peeking from under coats, oversize hoodies as well as chunky knitwear with sensual cutouts on the back and the sides.
The collection transitioned to taupe via vinyl coats and separates, before delving into colors ranging from acid green to purple and veering toward a more street, grungy direction, where cropped hoodies and shirts were matched with Dell’Acqua’s signature pencil skirts. Also a staple for the designer, tartan motifs appeared on oversize shirts but were made feminine when rendered on transparent chiffon dresses.
Dell’Acqua didn’t shy away from giving men their share of romanticism, through laced crop tops as well as overlaying striped shirts with chiffon and adding feathers to the back of essential cashmere knits worn over sartorial Bermuda pants and wide-leg pants.
While keeping genders separate, the designer proved that his fashion lexicon already comprises codes that convincingly work for both sexes as the collection was quintessentially Dell’Acqua — from A to Z.