In a Milan season when many brands are parading serene or escapist fashions, a distraction from the unsettling global situation, Sportmax decided to face reality and reflect the uncertainty — while elaborating on a minimal Nineties esthetic.

The models in this physical show paraded around like survivors of a post-apocalyptic world. There was something primal about their outfits, including dresses made from scraps of leather and silk draped around the body, while their cool maxi totes seemed cobbled from trash bags.

A breezy nylon raincoat billowed like a parachute, and a maxi trench was intentionally cut too big, as if rescued from a man’s wardrobe. Clinging tie-dye tops were matched with wrap skirts with an artisanal, unfinished look, and Nineties tailoring was given a rebellious vibe. Metallic jewelry pieces, including piercing-inspired chokers and arm rings, felt like the amulets of this new tribe of women, conscripted to build a new world from scratch.

Sure it’s easier to dream about a better, brighter future, but it’s more meaningful to be present and reflect on what’s really going on. With this collection, neither happy nor overly gloomy, Sportmax perfectly interpreted the times with courage and determination. Let the rebuilding begin.

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