Walter Chiapponi described his approach to the spring collection as “very emotional and spontaneous,” created during the lockdown, and this spontaneity was mirrored by clothes that looked lived-in, washed and easy.
Chiapponi spoke of a nonchalant Seventies vibe, and, in fact, for the video to present the collection, he stripped Villa Necchi Campiglio of much of its decoration and furnishings for “a more modernist” take on the landmark location in Milan. “It’s one of my favorite places, but I transformed it,” he said during a preview of the collection.
Chiapponi tapped 10 models, ranging from Mariacarla Boscono and Karen Elson to Irina Shayk, posing in different rooms to the performance of singer and model Okay Kaya. “The song is sensual, but it’s also a joyful hymn to life,” Chiapponi said.
Perhaps compensating for the lack of physical contact with people during the lockdown, Chiapponi said, the fabrics were very tactile, and he chose washed cotton, canvas and suede that had texture, often a crumpled and lived-in look.
Pockets were a key focus — on a suede bomber worn over a floor-length denim skirt or on men’s polo shirts with patch pockets. An oversize Tod’s logo stood out on pockets on the men’s jackets.
One of Chiapponi’s favorite looks was a sailor blazer over carrot pants. He explained outerwear and jackets should be a key category for Tod’s and he delivered several models: oversize blazers with a drawstring on the back; belted denim jackets; light down jackets; washed suede and canvas safari jackets; liquid duster styles; denim military coats, and patchwork leather blousons.
There were also feminine ruched silk dresses.
The color palette was vibrant, with touches of wisteria, orange, red and jade green.
This being Tod’s, Chiapponi was careful to deliver plenty of accessories. He developed platform sandals, with wedges in cork or a reptile patchwork, and pony hair vamps. The brand’s signature Gommino pebble sole appeared on sandals decorated with studs and laced to the ankle, inspired by antique Roman statues, he said, in the style of buskins. Slip-on models had Plexiglass hourglass heels.
Calf bucket bags and soft deconstructed ones were crafted by folding a large, single piece of leather. There were oversize fringing details and the Oboe bag was the new version of the hobo with a soft profile. There were also knitted sneakers with straps tied at the ankle in pale pastel colors.