At a little over a year in, Danish designer Christian Jull Nielsen, who cut his teeth at Dior under John Galliano, is making a bullish proposition for his Aknvas line. Not only did he design a full women’s collection, spending hours draping in his New York City apartment, but he also is launching a men’s wear offering. In fact, much of his work could be put in the genderless category with his boxy tailoring and smartly draped mannish shirting.

It’s little details like covered buttons and oversize cuffs found on monogrammed shirting, elastic accents, or little fabric belts which with a quick sleight of hand can change the shape of the garment that elevate his offering. Nielsen was one of the lucky ones, as he was able to sneak away to the Caribbean during the pandemic, and his collection saw the locale inform his work, with brightly colored parkas, loose pants with pleats, pin-tucked shirtdressing and bright gauzy sheer knits.

Either for the boys or girls, or somewhere in between, the full breadth of his work had a easy vacation vibe and well designed energy — pieces for both the Caribbean or a night out in Brooklyn. And at his contemporary price point, it’s a lot of design for the price, with items that — even in brightly colored hues— feel seasonless and easily could be hero pieces to punch up his customer’s wardrobe.

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