Michelle Duncan, the New York designer and founder of emerging women’s ready-to-wear label, Duncan, debuted her spring collection via a short film titled “Rigid. Repetition. Release.” Set to the music of Ladytron, Duncan once again successfully presented a tightly edited selection of garments that juxtapose the ideas of conservative, uniform dress with a darker, edgier spirit — or “goth girl gone corporate.”
Incorporating the ideas of repetition, the designer doubled down on former silhouettes and reinterpreted them into a “pared back version of dressing up,” in cotton twills, poplin and light wool. In a palette of mostly stark black and white, pleating, strong tailoring and the signature Duncan plaid — inspired by the designer’s Scottish heritage — were all key to the collection. The season’s best looks included classic, structured silhouettes with grittier details, like a crisp men’s tuxedo shirt with metal grommets back decoration, a modest black pleated skirt with metal hardware details or prim, mid-length dresses with pleated collars and cuffs.