“There’s something I find extremely cathartic in hands-on work,” designer Marina Moscone told WWD in an exclusive preview, ahead of her Tuesday morning debut on the CFDA’s Runway360 platform. In her spring film, Moscone can be seen diligently crafting her collections — hand-marbling fabrics, molding clay into new seasonal accessories, weaving on her home-built loom, draping and twisting new silhouettes and so forth — to a dialogue voiceover by the designer herself. “I hope what resonates is that it’s all about the artistry,” Moscone states as the video closes.
Over the last seven months, the designer focused her thoughts about intelligent dressing, while observing the women surrounding her on walks around the city. The season, the designer’s last main-season debut before going into a pre-season model, embodies pragmatism with excellent craft and artistry, with a Sixties-influenced, modernist elan.
“Holding these simple, purist pieces to the highest standard of quality,” Moscone explained during a preview appointment. Take the collection’s first look: the idea of a simpler, pared down staple T-shirt, which Moscone elevated through an elongated silhouette in alabaster crepe with raw fringed hem and contrasting geranium-toned machine knit rib neckline and sleeve trim. The Sixties spirit came smartly through these longer, retro-inspired silhouettes with playful, hand-painted leather buttons, in a more vibrant palette than seasons prior. Inspired by artist Marissa Merz, the splash of color brought forth an energizing, positive feel to the designer’s new marled machine knit polos and patchworked, integral knit offerings. Moscone interpreted the raw, patchworked industrial designs of Christopher Rucker to reinvigorate her bias of the season — intricate navy and black slips comprised of individually cut and embroidered squares, meticulously joined together by simple tacks. Less evening-centric than before, Moscone’s ready-to-wear wove together brand hallmarks (twisted hand-draping, basque suiting, a minimalist core) and fresh, new ideas together in a divine collection that upheld luxurious craftsmanship with sophisticated wearability.
WATCH: Inside Marina Moscone’s Spring 2021 Collection