For spring, Ambush offered a stylish lineup that steered elegance into a comfort zone — pairing wrapped cropped tops with roomy, high-waisted trousers, for example, and throwing a trenchcoat on top, elongating the look.

“I do want to get dressed up, but I definitely want to be in more comfortable materials,” said Yoon Ahn, speaking through Zoom.

“Before, I didn’t mind the pain,” she added.

Natural fabrics like linen and wool were used widely, while the color palette was dominated with ivory and pale neutrals — this threw the spotlight on the silhouettes. They were interesting and varied, with a clever use of volumes — trousers that were roomy around the knees, for extra ease when walking, but also flattering, thanks to a high waist. Suit jackets were closed with ties, rather than constricting buttons, and light workwear jackets had cargo pockets. Knitwear was added in patches to pieces for men, in the form of striped crochet strips, adding a graphic line and extra comfort without going all knit.

Denim pieces were appealing — “you can always run to denim,” as Yoon pointed out — and included a pair of elegant trousers with widely, folded pleats and panels of Japanese denim with subtle patterns — “meant to get better the more it’s worn.”  The label also offered a knit dress in Japanese paper yarn, which added texture to the lineup.

Accessories are a focus, and the category was expanded with bags and shoes — heeled sandals and mules. 

“A lot of things are going on — the last thing you want to worry about is how uncomfortable you feel in clothes,” said Yoon, who has been hunkering down in Tokyo since the coronavirus lockdowns swept the globe.