Copenhagen-based Cecilie Bahnsen has built a following with a design ethos that walks a line between ethereal femininity and Scandinavian minimalism. With her Paris Fashion Week debut — albeit virtual — she zoomed in on the surface effects and handcrafts that personify her designs, layering different textures and contrasting black or white monochrome silhouettes with pops of hot pink and green that drew on the otherworldly installations of James Turrell.

This was most apparent in the final look, an off-the-shoulder white gown with shimmering 3-D embroideries that undulated, capturing the light. Other highlights included a coat in white broderie anglaise made in collaboration with Mackintosh, the second season the designer has worked with the Scottish heritage brand.

Her video, set against a Nordic seascape, channeled an intentional sense of melancholy, the wind billowing through the fabrics, and reiterated the nomadic feel of the collection, inspired by a series of Seventies black-and-white photographs of a group of Goze, blind women musicians who traveled from city to city in Japan.

The format, the designer said over the phone, allowed her to zoom in on design details and embellishments created in-house in a way not possible with a runway presentation.

Her layering of textures tone-on-tone in beaded organza, smocking and plumetis contrasted with the sharper lines of ribbed knitwear pieces and offered an appealing combination of purism and romance.

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