It’s been the question of the season: What to do about fashion in the time of COVID-19: Give into functional comfort completely, or make a go at fantasy? At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada answered, “Both!”
“These are polar times…” she said in the collection notes. That’s for sure, and she’s not even living in the Trumpian U.S. Her message, though, was a unifying one, mingling functional sport and fantasy evening in the way only Prada can.
Setting up the fashion show as spectator sport, Prada staged hers at Club Miu Miu, OMA’s take on an arena with white rubber walls and graphic floor lines for models to walk for a runway. Just like at an NBA game, there was a wall of virtual fans in attendance, Zooming in from IRL Miu Miu events around the world.
The collection crackled with color and speed. The clothes were zippy, a Seventies-Nineties mash-up of covetable track dressing mixing earth tones, sport brights, sugary pastels and plasticky embellishments. Racing-striped, digital dot-dappled or bejeweled track jackets were the stars, worn over sporty miniskirts with rounded side-slits; groovy, high-waisted track pants, or bikini briefs, offering something for everyone. There were even a few terry dressing set options, like the emerald green track jacket and side-slit skirt with chain belt that was a next-gen Juicy suit. (Cher Horowitz would approve.)
Sleek, color-blocked sport-tailored jackets and coats, logo knit polo shirts and stripe turtlenecks reminiscent of Nineties Prada Sport styles of yore were back like old friends, worn with kitten-heel flip-flops or sneaker mules. To the comfort-sport pieces, the designer added her feminine touch, with fantasy sheer ruffled baby Ts, plaid silk skirts and iridescent slipdresses that declared this wasn’t slouch wear, it was unmistakably fashion.
So what if you’re only wearing Miu Miu’s pink bejeweled handkerchief halter top and plasticky floral orange miniskirt set on a red spandex waistband to dance alone in your living room? As the designer aptly pointed out, “The first spectator of yourself is you.” Play on.