Y’s Black collection looked a little rough around the edges — intentionally so, thanks to the frayed hem details that punctuated several looks — but its vocabulary was refined. Yohji Yamamoto’s creative team played on the label’s signature utilitarian aesthetic and roomy, layered silhouettes with a lineup titled “Truth.” It was indeed true to brand, and got straight to the point. Using natural fabrics such as Cupro, rayon and cotton, the design team succeeded in walking that very fine line between understated and interesting.

Alongside signature asymmetric gabardine pieces in black, fluid trenchcoats and raw indigo denim looks, there was an array of loose-fitting shirtdresses, shifts, one-pieces and pinafores, either plain, dip-dyed or bleached to create unique effects, as in a series in royal blue and black that resembled a cloudy night sky, with each piece unique.