Referencing the works of Henri Rousseau, who despite being best known for his naïve, luxuriant jungle landscapes, never actually left France, Zuhair Murad’s spring collection was a metaphor for our current thwarted dreams of travel.
The self-taught painter’s works were interpreted in a series of prints used on crisp cotton to create a cute wrap dress and trenchcoat for day, or on gowns for evening, with undulating foliage printed in black on ivory taffeta. Floral motifs were worked tone-on-tone as macramé panels on off-white cotton, particularly striking when iterated as a jumpsuit.
Alongside these looks, which lent a graphic freshness to the collection, printed chiffon and crêpe dresses and blouses with signature graphic lace inserts and handkerchief hemlines reprised the floral motifs for which Murad is known.
As for the heavily embellished red-carpet looks Murad’s customer comes looking for, there were embroidered gowns in bright shades and a range of tailoring in shimmering gold lamé that nodded to the Eighties. Alongside them, an A-line midi skirt and matching crop top in black with colorful floral embroideries put a youthful spin on house codes.