For years, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been putting their take on vintage military and workwear pieces, re-creating them in modern fabrications and easy-to-wear silhouettes. Their spring collection followed the same path, and yet it had more of an emphasis on elegance than some of their other recent offerings. Perhaps this was partially due to the fact that it was also the first collection in several seasons that lacked a clothing collaboration with the likes of The North Face or Adidas.
Hyke’s spring offering took inspiration from pieces including British police shirts from the Sixties, which were given a feminine twist with sheer balloon sleeves, and British army desert storm coats from the Forties, which draped beautifully in lightweight and waterproof Pertex polyester.
“People are busy and often have to go to many different places in a day, but in Japan people still want to look nice even when they’re running around,” Ode said, explaining Hyke’s penchant for textiles and silhouettes that are both beautiful and functional.
Other nods to the military came in the form of a series of laminated coats and separates inspired by rubber coated overcoats worn by the French armed services, and a Royal Navy armor vest that was softened when worn over a delicate sheer blouse. Additional interesting textile choices included easy trousers crafted from a heavyweight jersey with sheer panels below the knees, and boxy pullovers and fringed skirts made from an ultrasuede, a fabric by Toray Industries that is often used in car interiors and furniture upholstery.
Ode and Yoshihara often favor neutral shades of black, navy and khaki, but their latest offering also included pops of royal blue and sky. Tailored jackets and trousers in gray suiting fabrics provided contrast to some of the more casual pieces.
While the designers didn’t collaborate with other brands on their apparel this season, they did for accessories. Japanese bag brand Chacoli produced a series of totes, backpacks and cross body bags, while local label Beautiful Shoes made the wedge-heeled, open-toe mules and sporty sandals.