Fall ’09

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Overview

From double-breasted suits to bold zippers, seven dominant themes emerged from the fall collections in Milan, Paris and New York.SEE LIST AT LEFT FOR ALL OF THIS ISSUE'S ARTICLES

From This Issue

Dior Homme

Designer and Luxury

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear: Redefining Luxe

At the Men’s collections in Milan, Paris and New York, designers assess their values in a challenging time.

clock March 16, 2009Jean Scheidnes

Thom Browne’s working stiffs.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Pitti Uomo’s Army of One

For his headlining act at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Thom Browne conceived an extremely regimented and hyper-condensed day of an office drone, circa 1955.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Thom Browne’s working stiffs.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments in Fall ’09 Men’s Wear

Raf reinvents, Dunhill goes designer, Armani and Dolce duke it out in the press. Here, the most memorable moments of the fall fashion season.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Kanye West and Marc Jacobs.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: True Kanye West

Winning a slew of Grammys and being voted MTV’s hottest emcee might be a pretty good excuse for putting your feet up. Not for Kanye West.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Jil Sander

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Jil Sander’s Shape-Shifter

Raf Simons at Jil Sander served up staples that were daringly innovative with sculptural, rounded shapes.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Caroline Kennedy, Giorgio Armani and Joel Klein.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Armani Takes Fifth

Although the economy nose-dived after Giorgio Armani committed to open a Manhattan flagship on Fifth Avenue, he proceeded to unveil it with tasteful fanfare.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Ralph Lauren Watch

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: It’s About Time for Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren swept into Geneva for a gala dinner hosted by Compagnie Financière Richemont chief Johann Rupert to launch the designer’s first luxury watches.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Moncler Gamme Bleu Men's Fall 2009

Fashion Features

Defining Moment: Door Jam at Moncler

Atop an artificial ski slope, Moncler unveiled a new Gamme Bleu collection designed by Thom Browne, a mash-up of functional skiwear and unmistakable tailoring.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Calvin Klein Collection

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Calvin Klein, a Boy Like That

After 11 seasons in Milan, Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli brought the show home to New York.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Charlie Sheen at MAGIC.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Charlie Sheen Happens to Vegas

Charlie Sheen may not seem like a fashion icon, but he livened up the MAGIC show in Las Vegas, where he was promoting the DaVinci Collection by Charlie Sheen.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Dries Van Noten

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Dries Van Noten’s Party Line

Showing at the drab and dated French Communist party headquarters was the first clue that Dries Van Noten had turned the page on his romantic leanings.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Giorgio Armani sporting an Obama button.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Obama-Rama

“Fashion has to be a part of life and life a part of fashion,” declared Alber Elbaz.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

The YSL film.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Yves Saint Laurent’s Screen Play

Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati has a marked affection for film.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Monarchy

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: On With the Show for Monarchy

Staging a runway show during New York Fashion Week is expensive and demanding— and far harder when your parent company declares bankruptcy just weeks before.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Dunhill

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Alfred Dunhill’s Tinker Tailor

Had the late Alfred Dunhill been sitting front row at Kim Jones’ debut runway show for his label in Paris, one suspects he’d have tipped his hat.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Dolce & Gabbana

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Milan Fashion Week’s Trousergate

Milan Fashion Week heated up when Giorgio Armani accused Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of pilfering from his fall 2008 collection.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Lynn Downey with Levi’s jeans made in 1879.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Levi’s Jean-ealogy

Lynn Downey is the only Levi Strauss & Co. employee who travels on the job with a 6-foot, 9-inch bodyguard.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Roberta Armani, David Beckham

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: Soccer Mania

With soccer virtually a religion in Italy, it was unsurprising that a number of shows in Milan were stocked with stars of the beautiful game.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Hoon

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: MAGIC’s Going Global

In spite of what the Venetian and Paris casinos would have us believe, the Vegas trade shows tend to be a domestic affair—but not this year.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Raf Simons

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: E Tu, Raf Simons?

The biggest shock that Raf Simons could have given his audience was a lineup of classic suits— that’s exactly how he opened his mesmerizing fall show in Paris.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

The AG-ed 15-year wash.

Fashion Features

Defining Moments: A Vintage Year for AG-ed

In Southgate, CA is a 400,000-square-foot laundry and manufacturing facility that churns out some of the most perfectly aged and treated denim in the U.S.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Kenzo

Fashion Features

The Men’s Wear Trends of Fall ’09

From double-breasted suits to bold zippers, here are the seven dominant themes that emerged from the fall collections in Milan, Paris and New York.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Alexander McQueen

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Double Vision

While shrunken suits prevailed, new double-breasted styles mixed masculine appeal with a touch of the dandy.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Michael Kors

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Neck and Neck

Turtlenecks stood out as a key piece, offering chic simplicity and an alternative to the shirt and tie.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Kenzo

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Belts de Jour

Taking cues from the trenchcoat, belts appeared outside outerwear to create a body-conscious silhouette.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Versace

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Winter White

Designers brightened the mood by flouting the old rule against wearing white in cold weather.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Trussardi 1911

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Zip Drive

Rocker chic plus a goth palette equaled an ideal canvas for big zippers, adding to the urban warrior’s rough edge.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Jil Sander

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: Curves Ahead

Rounded shoulders— structured, not soft— reflected an architectural approach to everything from overcoats to cardigans.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Dolce & Gabbana

Fashion Features

Fall ’09 Men’s Wear Trends: The Bold Ones

From big bags to massive scarves, accessories were the linchpin— and focal point— of many fall looks.

clock March 16, 2009Alex Badia

Pan on the Galliano runway.

Designer and Luxury

John Galliano: The Man and the Myths

A look behind the scenes as John Galliano prepares for his brilliantly subversive Paris men’s wear show.

clock March 16, 2009Miles Socha

Moments before the show.

Fashion Features

Burberry Check Mate

As he confidently revives the Burberry check for fall, Christopher Bailey reflects on the art of disheveled elegance.

clock March 16, 2009Jean Scheidnes

Lanvin RTW Fall 2009

Designer and Luxury

Lanvin: A Delicate Balance

With a look at once refined and nonchalant, the design duo behind Lanvin men’s wear break through on the Paris runway.

clock March 16, 2009Emilie Marsh

Donatella Versace after the show.

Designer and Luxury

The Versace Man

A new level of tailoring only adds to his sex appeal, thanks to the collaboration between Donatella Versace and men’s wear designer Alexandre Plokhov.

clock March 16, 2009Alessandra Ilari

Left: General Idea vest, Filippa K jacket, Warriors of Radness T-shirt, Theory jeans; Native Son jacket, Eubiq NY sweater, Helmut Lang pants; Native Son jacket, Cold Method cardigan, John Varvatos jeans

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Luxe Streetwear

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Lova’s wool jacket and pants, Nike Sportswear’s cotton sweater, Quiksilver’s sneakers

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Red

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Scotch & Soda’s wool jacket, Lova’s cotton shirt, Tiger of Sweden’s cotton pants, Original Penguin’s tie, Orciani’s belt, Cire’s gloves, John’s hat with a sterling silver pin by Tobias Wistisen.

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Nouveau Preppy

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

First Row: Diesel, Nudie Jeans, 7 For All Mankind Second Row: Rag & Bone, Wrath Arcane, Vans Third Row: Fred Perry, Polo by Ralph Lauren, Scotch & Soda Fourth Row: Gant, Stussy (All Cotton)

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Plaid Shirts

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Clockwise from top : Samsonite Black Label by Viktor & Rolf, Ralph Lauren, MCM, Orciani, Samsonite Black Label, Brunello Cucinelli, Dunhill.

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Bags

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Gilded Age’s cashmere sweater, cotton shirt and jeans. Red Wing Shoes’ boots.

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Americana

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Cutler and Gross

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Sunglasses

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Left to right, top to bottom: S2VS’ cotton, White & Warren’s , Victor Glemaud’s , Fred Perry’s , Splendid Mills’ , Christopher Fischer’s , Gilded Age’s , Vince’s l, Save Khaki’s. (Thermals)

Textiles

Fall ’09 Essentials: Thermals

From the trade shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas, here are over 100 must-haves, with styles ranging from street luxe to twisted preppy.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Christian Audigier in his new Los Angeles office.

Retail

Christian Audigier, Le Vif

It means “the fast one”— appropriate for Christian Audigier, the French-born marketer behind the Ed Hardy brand and Las Vegas trade show, When I Move You Move.

clock March 16, 2009Andrew Harmon

The updated jean jacket, April 77’s cotton jacket.

Fashion Features

Denim’s New Blue

Denim has been an oasis of strength in the current retail downturn.

clock March 16, 2009David Lipke

Band of Outsiders

Textiles

Wale Watch

Fall’s favorite materials — corduroy and astrakhan — have roots in trying times.

clock March 16, 2009Suzanne Blecher

Paul Smith

Textiles

Just Suit Me

In a tough economy, European designers place a renewed emphasis on classic tailored clothing — just as traditional suit makers turn focus to capital of fashion.

clock March 16, 2009Emilie Marsh

Burberry Prorsum

Fashion Features

Backstage Pass

For the models, it’s all about hurry-up-and-wait as celebrities mingle with designers and stylists apply the finishing touches.

clock March 16, 2009WWD Staff

Tyler Riggs (Red) was the most prolific, walking in 29 shows including Dries Van Noten, seen here.

Fashion Features

Face Time for New Models

one of the ways fashion houses cut costs this season was to cast new faces rather than relying on costlier established models.

clock March 16, 2009Jean Scheidnes

Essentialist

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